[PDF] The Zen Of Oceans And Surfing Wit Wisdom And Inspiration eBook

Author : Peter J. Westwick
Publisher : Crown
Page : 418 pages
File Size : 46,64 MB
Release : 2013-07-23
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 0307719480

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Draws on decades of experience and the popular team-taught courses at the University of California at Santa Barbara to trace the cultural, political, economic and environmental aspects of surfing while evaluating the diverse range of influences that have rendered the sport a billion-dollar worldwide industry.

Author : Jaimal Yogis
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
Page : 265 pages
File Size : 24,48 MB
Release : 2009-04-10
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 0861719980

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Fed up with teenage life in the suburbs, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great salty blue.

Author : Jeremy V. Jones
Publisher : Gospel Light Publications
Page : 198 pages
File Size : 32,43 MB
Release : 2006-09-05
Category : Juvenile Nonfiction
ISBN : 9780830742851

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Surfing is spiritual. Ask most wave riders and they’ll describe some sense of deeper connection with the water, the waves or the power around them. Surfing to them is a spiritual experience. In a subculture that’s traditionally known for its rebellion, here you’ll find a deep undercurrent of faith amongst these top wave riders who share an understanding that the Creator of the waves also desires to know and relate with them. In these pages, you’ll meet top surfers such as C.J. Hobgood, who rose to the top of the surf world but found it ultimately dissatisfying; Bethany Hamilton, a courageous teen who survived a shark attack and returned to the sport; surf legend Tom Curren, a middle-aged father of four whose comeback of sorts is the talk of the surf world; and Al Merrick, a remarkable surfboard shaper who crafts the vehicles ridden by surf stars. Discover what makes these celebrities and others believe that surfing is meaningless without a deep satisfying faith in something more.

Author : Sally Anne MacKinnon
Publisher :
Page : 114 pages
File Size : 46,58 MB
Release : 2016-05-12
Category : Body, Mind & Spirit
ISBN : 9780646955551

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Full colour coffee table book with 52 surf-life wisdoms and accompanying photographs.

Author : Michael Dobbs-Higginson
Publisher : Eye Books (US&CA)
Page : 277 pages
File Size : 18,73 MB
Release : 2017-06-01
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 1785630385

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A unique memoir in which a young adventurer from colonial Rhodesia charms his way around the world, sleeping in stately homes and public toilets, smuggling drugs across several borders, and losing a $50 million fortune to the CIA, before settling into a stellar banking career. Looking back on a life well lived as he faces terminal illness, he swears that the key to his success was his grueling training as a Buddhist monk in a snowbound Japanese monastery.

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
Page : 466 pages
File Size : 49,7 MB
Release : 2016-04-26
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 0143109391

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**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Author : Elizabeth Weil
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
Page : 199 pages
File Size : 23,30 MB
Release : 2012-02-07
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 1439168261

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Written with charm and wit, No Cheating, No Dying investigates one of the most universal human institutions—marriage. Elizabeth Weil and her husband Dan have two basic ground rules for their marriage: no cheating, no dying. For ten years it’s worked fine, but Elizabeth started to wonder if it could be better. Elizabeth Weil believes that you don’t get married in a white dress, in front of all your future in-laws and ex-boyfriends but gradually, over time, through all the road rage incidents and pre-colonoscopy enemas, good and bad dinners, and all the small moments you never expected to happen or much less endure. In this book, Weil examines the major universal marriage issues—sex, money, mental health, in-laws, children—through bravely recounting her own hilarious, messy, and sometimes difficult relationship. She seeks out the advice of financial planners, psychoanalysts, therapists, household management consultants, priests, rabbis, and the United States government. Woven into this funny and forthright narrative is Weil's extensive research on marriage and marriage improvement. The result is an illuminating and entertaining read that is a fresh addition to the body of literature about marriage.