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Author : Ben R. Finney
Publisher :
Page : 190 pages
File Size : 23,38 MB
Release : 1966
Category : Surfing
ISBN :
Form VI Merit Prize awarded to B. J. Griffin, December 1969. Signed: 'David R. Lawrence'
Author : Ben R. Finney
Publisher : Pomegranate
Page : 126 pages
File Size : 26,25 MB
Release : 1996
Category : Authors, American
ISBN : 0876545940
Surfing traces the history of the sport from its beginnings in ancient Hawaii through the mid 1960s. This revised edition of the 1966 classic features extensive illustrations, a new introduction, and articles by Mark Twain and Jack London recounting their observations on surfing. The book also explores the development of the surfboard and follows surfing's timeline from the earliest legends to the accomplishments of modern surfing heroes.
Author : Isaiah Helekunihi Walker
Publisher : University of Hawaii Press
Page : 241 pages
File Size : 30,61 MB
Release : 2011-03-02
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 0824860918
Surfing has been a significant sport and cultural practice in Hawai‘i for more than 1,500 years. In the last century, facing increased marginalization on land, many Native Hawaiians have found refuge, autonomy, and identity in the waves. In Waves of Resistance Isaiah Walker argues that throughout the twentieth century Hawaiian surfers have successfully resisted colonial encroachment in the po‘ina nalu (surf zone). The struggle against foreign domination of the waves goes back to the early 1900s, shortly after the overthrow of the Hawaiian kingdom, when proponents of this political seizure helped establish the Outrigger Canoe Club—a haoles (whites)-only surfing organization in Waikiki. A group of Hawaiian surfers, led by Duke Kahanamoku, united under Hui Nalu to compete openly against their Outrigger rivals and established their authority in the surf. Drawing from Hawaiian language newspapers and oral history interviews, Walker’s history of the struggle for the po‘ina nalu revises previous surf history accounts and unveils the relationship between surfing and colonialism in Hawai‘i. This work begins with a brief look at surfing in ancient Hawai‘i before moving on to chapters detailing Hui Nalu and other Waikiki surfers of the early twentieth century (including Prince Jonah Kuhio), the 1960s radical antidevelopment group Save Our Surf, professional Hawaiian surfers like Eddie Aikau, whose success helped inspire a newfound pride in Hawaiian cultural identity, and finally the North Shore’s Hui O He‘e Nalu, formed in 1976 in response to the burgeoning professional surfing industry that threatened to exclude local surfers from their own beaches. Walker also examines how Hawaiian surfers have been empowered by their defiance of haole ideas of how Hawaiian males should behave. For example, Hui Nalu surfers successfully combated annexationists, married white women, ran lucrative businesses, and dictated what non-Hawaiians could and could not do in their surf—even as the popular, tourist-driven media portrayed Hawaiian men as harmless and effeminate. Decades later, the media were labeling Hawaiian surfers as violent extremists who terrorized haole surfers on the North Shore. Yet Hawaiians contested, rewrote, or creatively negotiated with these stereotypes in the waves. The po‘ina nalu became a place where resistance proved historically meaningful and where colonial hierarchies and categories could be transposed. 25 illus.
Author : Fred Hemmings
Publisher :
Page : 136 pages
File Size : 44,11 MB
Release : 1977
Category : Surfing
ISBN :
Book written especially for the neophyte surfer containing the history of surfing, waves, surfboards, and techniques of riding a wave,
Author : Nat Young
Publisher : Victory Audio Video Services
Page : 222 pages
File Size : 50,59 MB
Release : 1994
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9780959181647
Former World Champion Nat Young brings surf fans a stunning color history that is easily the most authoritative book ever written on the sport. Young traces the surfing's development, from its origins among Hawaiian kings riding heavy wooden boards to current professionals shooting the pipe on space-age polymers. Spectacular color photographs leap from every page, complementing equally colorful biographies of some of the surfing's most remarkable -- and eccentric -- pioneers. A special feature includes never-before-published photographs from competitive surfing's early days in Hawaii and Australia.
Author : Karen Rinaldi
Publisher : Atria Books
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 40,59 MB
Release : 2019-05-07
Category : Self-Help
ISBN : 150119576X
Discover how the freedom of sucking at something can help you build resilience, embrace imperfection, and find joy in the pursuit rather than the goal. What if the secret to resilience and joy is the one thing we’ve been taught to avoid? When was the last time you tried something new? Something that won’t make you more productive, make you more money, or check anything off your to-do list? Something you’re really, really bad at, but that brought you joy? Odds are, not recently. As a sh*tty surfer and all-around-imperfect human Karen Rinaldi explains in this eye-opening book, we live in a time of aspirational psychoses. We humblebrag about how hard we work and we prioritize productivity over play. Even kids don’t play for the sake of playing anymore: they’re building blocks to build the ideal college application. But we’re all being had. We’re told to be the best or nothing at all. We’re trapped in an epic and farcical quest for perfection. We judge others on stuff we can’t even begin to master, and it’s all making us more anxious and depressed than ever. Worse, we’re not improving on what really matters. This book provides the antidote. (It’s Great to) Suck at Something reveals that the key to a richer, more fulfilling life is finding something to suck at. Drawing on her personal experience sucking at surfing (a sport she’s dedicated nearly two decades of her life to doing without ever coming close to getting good at it) along with philosophy, literature, and the latest science, Rinaldi explores sucking as a lost art we must reclaim for our health and our sanity and helps us find the way to our own riotous suck-ability. She draws from sources as diverse as Anthony Bourdain and surfing luminary Jaimal Yogis, Thich Nhat Hanh, and Jean-Paul Sartre, among many others, and explains the marvelous things that happen to our mammalian brains when we try something new, all to discover what she’s learned firsthand: it is great to suck at something. Sucking at something rewires our brain in positive ways, helps us cultivate grit, and inspires us to find joy in the process, without obsessing about the destination. Ultimately, it gives you freedom: the freedom to suck without caring is revelatory. Coupling honest, hilarious storytelling with unexpected insights, (It’s Great to) Suck at Something is an invitation to embrace our shortcomings as the very best of who we are and to open ourselves up to adventure, where we may not find what we thought we were looking for, but something way more important.
Author : Peter J. Westwick
Publisher : Crown
Page : 418 pages
File Size : 47,94 MB
Release : 2013-07-23
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 0307719480
Draws on decades of experience and the popular team-taught courses at the University of California at Santa Barbara to trace the cultural, political, economic and environmental aspects of surfing while evaluating the diverse range of influences that have rendered the sport a billion-dollar worldwide industry.
Author : Ellie Crowe
Publisher :
Page : 56 pages
File Size : 30,32 MB
Release : 2007
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN :
"A brief biography of Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku, five-time Olympic swimming champion from the early 1900s who is also considered worldwide as the 'father of modern surfing'"--Provided by publisher.
Author : Jack London
Publisher :
Page : 18 pages
File Size : 38,87 MB
Release : 1994-01-01
Category : Health & Fitness
ISBN : 9780942208122
Author : Lauren L. Hill
Publisher : Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 50,38 MB
Release : 2020
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9783899559989
Join the celebration of the diverse, vibrant, and engaged community of women riding and making waves around the globe. While surfing is usually seen as a male domain, women have long been nurturing their own water stories and claiming their rightful place in the world of this sport. She Surf hails the females, past and present, who are engaged in expanding the art of surfing. Through exclusive interviews and evocative imagery, the book travels from the iconic waves of Hawaii to remote locations in Morocco. Learn about the forgotten stories of Polynesian surfing princesses, pioneering wave riders from the 1960s, and the contemporary movers and shakers shaping the scene. This book is an exciting reflection on what it means to be a female surfer and what it means to be moved to action by the beauty of the sea.